The Kanchenjunga snows in Nepal’s east provide food for a tough, lesser-known Sun Kosi cousin. The Tamur combines a thrilling new river excursion with one of the greatest short Himalayan climbs, which offers breathtaking mountain vistas. After picking up our group of vivacious porters in Basantapur, we go through centuries-old phododendron trees covered in moss and sunny meadows. We are welcomed by breathtaking views of the Kanchenjunga range, Makalu, and Everest as we ascend the 10,000-foot pass above the holy lake in Gupha Pokhara.
Three Tamur tributaries combine their powers at Dobhan, bringing the raging rivers of the high mountains to the north together. The river is enclosed by steep canyon walls, and there are strong, continuous rapids. The river widens and has lovely white sand beaches in the center part. The last couple days, when the river is heading back toward the west, are amazing. With apparently never-ending rapids roaring through steep canyon walls, towering waves jump into the sky. Every major tributary’s confluence is lined with little fishing communities, and as we float by, wild monkeys watch from the surrounding forest. The locals are an intriguing mix of tribes and castes who have brewed their traditional beverage, tungba, to a high art.